Detaching even just with the thought, Tuscany from its most precious destinations seems an impossible exercise. How can one legitimately ask oneself, not to think of its cities of art (Florence, Siena, Pisa), of the small medieval villages (San Gimignano, Monteriggioni, Pienza and Montepulciano, just to name a few), of its extraordinary valleys ( Val d’Orcia) and the sought after seaside resorts (Argentario, Castiglione della Pescaia, Forte dei Marmi etc.). A unique heritage that is visited every year, referring to the pre-pandemic data (2019), by about 50 million tourists (data from the Regional Statistical Office) ready to experience the most exclusive jewels that this extraordinary land holds. However, there are other places, in the noble Tuscany, which, while not enjoying tourist fame and popularity, are able to express well that spirit of “Tuscany” that has made it so popular. They are destinations of the regional tourist firmament that seem daughters of a “lesser God”, even if mature and dynamic, sometimes overshadowed by the more well-known surrounding localities. Cities like Colle Val d’Elsa which, despite being strategically positioned close to the major regional roads, seems to be completely excluded from the mass tourism that flocks to nearby San Gimignano and Monteriggioni every year. Considered by many as a strong point, the fact that the city is not yet attacked by hit and run tourism, in reality Colle seems to be a village too ignored by tourism. It is no coincidence that in 2016, according to a research carried out by Avis, the city of Colle Val d’Elsa was among the most unjustly snubbed tourist destinations in Tuscany. It is the car rental company Avis Untrending that compiled the ranking, crossing the travel data in Avis cars with the number of citations made on social networks (Facebook, Twitter and Instagram) and where Colle occupies the first position among the most snubbed destinations in the world, even if more interesting and niche as reported in 2017 the online magazine “Tuscanypeople” (https://www.tuscanypeople.com/colle-val-d-elsa-borgo-toscano/). It is surprising that on social networks it seems to be such an unknown destination, in light of the immense heritage that Colle possesses and is waiting to be discovered.
Visibly separated into two parts, the city of Colle was born on the bank of the Elsa river which for centuries has fed flourishing mills, fulling mills and paper mills that have determined the development of the lower part of the city. Perched on a rocky spur, like a rider of the whole Val d’Elsa, is Colle Alta, with an ancient heart, while the most modern and industrious soul of the city is on the left bank of the Elsa river, Colle Bassa. The beauty of Colle is enclosed in this extraordinary combination of ancient and modern that fascinates and captivates even the less curious tourists. It is difficult to make a list of the many points of interest that crowd the upper part of the city, where the Middle Ages and the Renaissance have left indelible traces of their passage, many of which are still visible today in all their splendor. The characteristic Tower-houses, just to give an example, which in the Middle Ages began to appear in the city, giving it that unique profile that makes it so special. Today, of the many tower-houses that adorned the ancient village of Colle, very few remain, but representative of such beauty. In one of these, still visible today in all its glory, the famous sculptor and artist was born Arnolfo di Cambio, a unique construction half in stone and the other half in terracotta which, thanks to a recent restoration, has been enhanced both in the spaces and in the interior decorations, with frescoes made by the master Gino Terreni.
In addition to the towers, the upper part of Colle is a continuous discovery among suggestive panoramas and architectural pearls of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Intimate and silent alleys that still smell of the Middle Ages, imposing and extraordinary Renaissance palaces, singular churches and archaeological collections to be discovered, with some surviving craft traditions, to be experienced in the small shops still active today. If in the upper part of Colle time seems to have stopped, in the lower part it flows frenetically and at the rhythms of modernity. Extravagant works of contemporary art scattered here and there alternate with redeveloped urban spaces with modern architecture, imposing squares (Piazza Arnolfo) and pristine green areas, such as the nearby River Park. Without forgetting the most important and historic Italian glass and crystal supply chain, born in Colle and still active today, which has brought the name of the city far beyond national borders. No wonder that today Colle Val d’Elsa is also known as the “Bohemia of Italy” and where every year there are events and demonstrations in support of this ancient art. The accommodation offer is varied and for all tastes, ranging from the most dynamic and spartan B & Bs, to prestigious facilities and extremely elegant 4-star Relais. For lovers of good food, Colle has a long list of excellences. Among them stands the refined Arnolfo restaurant, two Michelin stars, where the Chef Gaetano Trovato amazes his customers with unique alchemies. But the gastronomic offer does not stop there, excellent proposals between tradition and innovation that populate the ancient and more modern parts of the city, where even the most demanding customers will find satisfaction. Already in the next article, we will give some small previews on the diversified summer gastronomic proposals that this extraordinary city offers.